Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
