Edward Enninful on Today's Society: 'Britain Feels Less Tolerant Now' Than We Were Decades Ago.

An unexpected discovery while riding the tube in 1988 changed forever the trajectory of a young Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was rapidly ushered into the capital's buzzing 1990s creative scene, moving from model to stylist and, while still a teenager, becoming the fashion director of the publication i-D.

"It was the zenith of the Young British Artists – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he states. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I felt we’d be kindred spirits. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I miss that energy."

Although Enninful appears wistful, he is far from alone. Recently, a longing look back of the 1990s has grown intense. But since that time, Enninful feels a profound shift. "I feel, we’re less accepting now than we were in the 90s," he observes. "It’s not even this country – it’s worldwide."

A Perceived Regression

This change is increasingly evident: the growth of far-right politics, the backlash against social awareness, and the reassertion of narrow beauty standards. Where once there was the hope of the late 90s, today a different political figure stands as a possible leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an symbol of national pride, has sparked debate once more.

According to Enninful, the antidote has consistently been to celebrate culture in all its diversity. This was the driving force behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a snapshot of modern Britain, showcasing a broad spectrum of prominent faces from music.

"People with a voice should employ it," he comments, explaining those publishing choices. "There is much discussion about immigration; I would not be in this position if Britain were not a open country, if it hadn't given my family a refuge and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I believed in. I hope this moment will pass."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He finds hope in the next generation: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They discuss implicit prejudice – I didn't even know what that was."

Those early experiences would define a pioneering career characterised by fearlessness and inclusivity. Enninful made history as the first man, first black man, first gay man, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His leadership featured historic front pages showcasing Black models, plus-sized women, older individuals, and individuals from all walks of life. Significantly, sales rose.

"To overlook vast segments of the population, it’s not just that you’re not being inclusive – it’s bad for business," he states.

Beyond the Magazine World

He has since founded his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his key endeavour since moving on from his previous role. He states his aim to continue being a "disruptor".

"I constantly interrogate the established norms. I was raised in a place where the majority was Black – the physicians, the attorneys, the president. Then we came to England, without funds, and I became the 'other'. I was very shy. My teachers declared I’d have no future. Me and my brothers were harassed under the Sus laws … those experiences gave me a sense of being between worlds."

In contrast to the caricature of industry figures as brash and temperamental, Enninful is softly spoken and projects peace. His path has included its share of hardship, including publicly shared periods of depression and addiction.

He has also endured serious health issues, having had multiple operations on his eyes, now leaving him with limited vision. "I was in such a difficult period for two years, not working, terrified I was going to lose my sight. It’s similar to PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I prayed, if this ever ends, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so scared to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

Curating a Cultural Era

This refusal to be typecast has led him outside the realm that made his name. He is now curating a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, bringing together work by a group of pivotal artists and photographers from the era. The show, he explains, aims to evoke the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and give platform to those who lacked due recognition at the time.

"Institutions didn't always shine a light on the truly innovative creators because they lacked the right pedigree," he observes.

The magazine 72 itself uses a unique approach, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "The question is, what can we do together? Is it an event, a podcast? The magazine is part of a larger creative platform."

A Testament to Resilience

Now, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most respected cultural influencers. His story, he states, is a testament to the power of pursuing your passions.

How would the Enninful of that era think of the Edward of today? He chuckles. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be pleased. In those days I was a rebel. I didn't think institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He adds. "Nothing is assumed. We lost our home, we fled our country. I almost lost my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have doubted me my entire life. But I am unstoppable once I’ve made up my mind to do something."