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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the family member, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.